Thursday, December 20, 2007

Picking Natural Stone

Commercial or construction use of stone

Architects, specifiers, designers, clients; choosing and using stone is an experience and one for which we recommend you ask for professional advice. Stone is a naturally occurring material and as such, has to be chosen like no other building material. Stone Federation members are fully trained, experienced and competent professionals who should be consulted as soon as you decide to use natural stone on your project. They can advise you and prevent any costly mistakes being made before it is too late.



Domestic use of stone


Using stone in your home or property can enhance your living space but you must be aware of the questions to ask when making your choice of stone.


Stone, correctly selected, can enhance the value of your property and be durable, and virtually maintenance free. However, incorrectly selected it can cause you problems. By purchasing stone you are making an investment so protect your money and get the right advice. Stone Federation suggests you always consult the experts first.


General types of natural stone

Classification

There are many different classification schemes for stone, which have prompted the industry to simplify descriptions. This has led to many problems when, for instance, a stone laid as a granite is actually found to be a different stone type altogether and does not perform as expected. The British Standard BSEN12440 (Denomination of natural stone) addresses the classification problem and insists upon the correct identification of stone type and origin. For the purposes of this guidance however, the simplified descriptions remain and it must be stressed that all stones should be considered individually for their merits in whatever use they are being considered for.

GRANITE


The term granite has been applied to almost any igneous stone that can retain a polish. True granites provide many of these stones but other types of igneous stone that may fall into this classification include syenites, gabbros, dolerites, and diorites. The metamorphic stones gneiss, schist and granulite are frequently also included in this ‘granite’ classification.

The formation of these igneous rocks by the slow cooling of molten minerals such as quartz, feldspar and hornblende has resulted in a wide variety of colours and grain patterns.

In the United Kingdom the quarrying of granite is concentrated in a small number of locations. Those of particular importance may be found in Devon and Cornwall, Cumbria, at Peterhead and Aberdeen and on the east coast of Scotland.

The main sources for imported granite are Scandinavia, South Africa, Sardinia, Portugal, Spain, India, North America, China and Brazil.

Applications
The interlocking crystal structure imparts both the high strength and low porosity necessary for a wide range of applications other than just flooring; these characteristics are also important in allowing successful use of slabs that are thinner than other types of stone.

Appearance
The immense colour choice includes fine and medium grained silver grey from Devon and Cornwall and fine grained pink from Scotland, whilst other countries provide dense, very fine grained materials with reflective crystals such as larvikite (e.g. blue and emerald pearl) from Norway; reds from Scandinavia and India; large grained brown from Finland; yellows from Brazil; and the delicately mottled greys, fawns and pinks from Sardinia.

The surface finish affects the appearances of granite and those available include sawn, flame textured, dolly pointed, fine axed, rough punched, honed, bush hammered and water jet. It is in the gloss polished form, however, that these granites reveal fully their colours and grain patterns.

Performance
Very hardwearing and physically strong, granite is largely unaffected by erosion, pollution or atmospheric attack. Facades are generally self cleaning, although eye level areas benefit from occasional cleaning as for glazing. A polished finish is almost indestructible.

SANDSTONEThe term sandstone is used to describe almost any stone of sedimentary origin with a granular texture. Some other types of stone that may fall under this classification include gritstones, siltstones, greywackes, conglomerates and marls. Aside from particle size variations, the dominant factor affecting sandstone performance is the grain cement that may be siliceous, calcareous, clay bearing or iron-rich.

Geologically it is a sedimentary type rock made up of various mineral particles mainly quartz, mica and felspar. All these minerals are bonded together with natural cements such as silicas, calcium carbonates, iron oxides and clays. The individual make up of each sandstone gives a wide range of colours. A pure silica sandstone is white with the colours arising from other minerals. Iron oxides can cause the stone to vary from buff or brown through to the deepest red. Grey colour stone is due to the presence of clay and green could indicate the presence of glauconite which contained potassium.

Sandstone is a natural material traditionally regarded as the building stone of the North. However, sandstone can be seen throughout the United Kingdom in many prestigious buildings from structures which form part of our heritage to modern office blocks.

Sandstone is traditionally used as a building material in many areas where it occurs locally particularly in Derbyshire, Yorkshire and the North East of England, Wales and Scotland. Many of the “stone cities” of the North derive their particular architectural character from the use of sandstone.

Most of the major sandstone quarries working today are located in the North of England, Derbyshire and Scotland. For flooring purposes, sandstones are also imported.

Appearance
Sandstone has many colours ranging from white, grey and buff to various shades of pink and red.

The colour and texture of stone is self evident, however the colour of dry stone can change quite dramatically on wetting. Natural weathering can play a major part in the change of colour. Such colour change can sometimes be viewed on abandoned faces of the quarry although it is much more important to view existing buildings constructed from the same stone.

Sandstones generally have an even texture, which may vary from course to fine, but the stone from some quarries also show attractive natural markings.

Applications
Many types of sandstone are suitable for paving or flooring. Some can be split (“riven”) otherwise the normal finish is sawn. Tooled, sandblasted and flame textured finishes are also available.

There is a vast variety of surface finishes available from the traditional rubble walling to wrought stonework with its finishes to different forms ie. boasting, pitched, broached, hammer dressed and rusticated, to the very intricate looking vermiculated. But most importantly, credit must go to the craftsmen who hue the sandstone to all the various forms from large stones with a high degree of moulding to the most intricate of carving work. Sandstones are suitable for blcok construction in most building and engineering work and can now be cut to relatively thin sections for cladding to steel framed or concrete structured buildings.

All in all sandstone is one of the few historic natural minerals still in use today. It provides excellent durability and is virtually maintenance free. It is aesthetically appealing to the eye whilst giving great value for money to the client.

Performance
Most sandstones have good load bearing and weathering properties. Correct detailling with regard to weathering is of prime importance, especially on buildings designed with sloping surfaces and without overhangs. Great care is required in the design of non-ferrous cramps and corbels for fixing to structures.

SLATESlate is found extensively, throughout the British Isles and has, for centuries, been a major source of building stone. Historically, and, in common with other stones, it was first used in and around the immediate areas of availability.

The term slate is often used to describe any rock that can be easily split into thin sheets, principally for roofing purposes. True slate is defined by the presence of a ‘slaty’ cleavage; this allows the slate to be split at almost any point through the stone parallel to the cleavage plane. Most true slates are metamorphosed sediments, often formerly mudstones; however, some British “slates” are derived from volcanic ash sequences and are not true slates in the strict geological sense.
Appearance
The major UK sources of slate, with their distinctive colours, are the Lake District blue/grey, light green, olive green and silver grey, North Wales blue, grey, blue-black and red, and Cornwall - grey.

Slate is easily split (“riven”) into thin sections, giving a natural finish. Other finishes include sawn, sanded, fine rubbed, flame textured, bush hammered and water jet.

Applications
From the very early, basic applications, British Slate is now used for very wide and diverse purposes. Modern quarrying and machine processes allow prime blocks to be sawn or split into large slabs and a variety of thicknesses. Current products include: roofing, cladding, cills, copings, flooring & paving, treads, plaques & memorials, worktops & fireplaces.

Slate is typically a very durable construction material and rarely exhibits visible degradation, even when placed under extreme atmospheric conditions for many years. For flooring purposes U.K. slate is unlikely to delaminate or exhibit efflorescence.

High flexural strength and typically very low porosity makes slate eminently suitable for flooring purposes and it requires little maintenance.

Caution should be exercised when choosing material marketed as slate as some may not be suitable for flooring. If any doubt exists about the material being considered, specialist advice should be sought.

Very thin, split, natural riven sections are used for roofing and the same methods produce thicker material for flooring and cladding. Slateis readily available in sawn, fine rubbed and other finishes wuch as sand-blasted and flame textured.

Performance
British Slate has a proven record of durability and being supplied fit for its intended purposes. This is readily seen on countless buildings in the UK and many areas of the world. Such examples of installation are witness to the ability of slate to withstand the rigours of extreme atmospheric conditions. Slate is extremely stable and will not degrade, warp or twist. Quality Assurance, management systems are widely used throughout the industry.

LIMESTONE

Stone is a material that man has used in building for several thousand years and it still lends itself to modern usage and design, and limestone in its various geological forms is probably the type of natural stone most widely used for this purpose. It occurs naturally in many parts of the UK with the limestones of the Jurassic period being those of most importance in this field. They run broadly in a belt from Dorset and Somerset in the south west, through the Cotswolds and Oxfordshire, on into Northamptonshire and Lincolnshire, to just north of the Humber.Limestone is a sedimentary rock. Many of the commonly used varieties were formed by the accretion of the hard remains of former organisms such as corals and shells. These materials principally comprise calcium carbonate (calcite), as does the cement. Calcite is a relatively soft mineral and careful selection will be needed when you choose this for use as flooring. Variations in the types and quantities of shell and other remains and the nature of the cement provide a huge range in the types of limestone available.

The limestones of these areas were used for building in Roman times and, in later centuries and to-date, have been the traditional building material of their localities, Many buildings throughout these counties bear witness to this. In addition, some limestones are extensively used outside their areas of origins as is evidenced by the many fine buildings to be seen throughout the British Isles, particularly in major cities and towns. Cathedrals, churches and numerous public and private buildings provide outstanding examples of the durability and beauty of these limestones and they show through the skill of the mason, how this stone is so eminently suitable for producing masonry of excellence in all aspects of plain and detailed work that may be required. Among the better known limestones of the Jurassic age are those of Purbeck, Clipsham, Ancaster, Ketton, Bath, Doulting and Weldon, whilst Portland stone is a characteristic feature of London architecture. From the earlier Carboniferous age come the limestones of Derbyshire and Cumbria such as Hopton Wood, Sheldon, Orton Scar and Salterwath.

Imported limestones, most notably French, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Turkish, Egyptian and Israeli are also available in the UK.

Appearance
The colours of limestones range from almost white to the warm honey tone of Bath stones with grey/blue and darker browns a feature in some limestones. Textures range from fine even grained stones to the smooth fossil bearing types and to the coarse open textured Portland roach. Certain limestones such as Purbeck and Hopton Wood take a polish and can be used as "marbles".

Applications
Limestones are used extensively in both new building and restoration where their ease of working facilitates the production of cladding, ashlar and other forms of walling. They are also suitable for flooring.

Many limestones are particularly suited to carved and moulded work. Components such as cills and jambs, soffits and copings, heads and mullions are readily produced to add interest and enrichment to building facades.

Performance
Limestones generally have good load bearing properties and weathering characteristics although correct detailing is important as with all building materials. Limestones must not be used above sandstones on exterior elevations.

The properties of individual types of stone can vary considerably and advice should always be sought on the selection of suitable stones, both for general and particular applications.

MARBLETrue marbles in the geological sense are metamorphosed limestone and are principally composed of recrystallised calcite formed into an interlocking granular structure. Some hard or partially metamorphosed limestones are incorrectly referred to as marble, even though they exhibit many of the characteristics of marble.

In its ‘purest’ state marble is typically white, however the presence of other minerals can often provide colour(s). In some cases the colour appears as irregular shaped patches (brecciation) or as substantial veining. Specialist advice should be obtained as to the suitability of such marbles in particular locations.

Greater care must also be taken during installation as other construction defects easily taint the pureness of marble, particularly from underlying materials, and may result in staining at a later date.

It is common to use marble with a highly polished surface finish and, as a consequence, slip resistance should be carefully considered. Marble is imported.

QUARTZITES

Quartzites are typically the metamorphosed product of an original sedimentary rock e.g. sandstone, composed almost entirely of quartz.

In general quartzites are hard wearing, have low porosity, a high compressive strength and good durability making them suitable for use as flooring. The metamorphic varieties in particular may be brittle and so some care is required in assessing a material prior to use. While composed largely of quartz, the presence of some impurities can lead to the development of different colours and the typical range is from white to yellowish brown, through to green, brown, gold, grey and blue. In Eire, the metamorphic quartzites have a complex geological history which has tended to result in them having a relatively small natural block size. All operating quartzite quarries in the British Isles occur in Eire. Elsewhere quartzites are commercially available from Norway, Sweden, Italy, South Africa, USA and Brazil.

TRAVERTINE

Travertine is the name normally given to a type of precipitated calcite associated with the cooling of waters around hot springs or in caves. Being formed very slowly it often incorporates dead matter such as tree debris that later rots away to leave a voided structure.

The performance of travertine greatly depends on the size and density of the voids, which, in most instances, are routinely resin surface filled before the finished stone is supplied. The nature of the fill material must be compatible with the travertine and not subject to discoloration or decay.

Traditionally travertine was naturally bedded and generally referred to as vein cut. Recently travertine cut face bedded and referred to as classico has appeared on the market. Whilst the vein cut material has a long and proven history of use, the cross cut or classico travertine has not yet proved to be as suitable because of surface collapse and filler failure. Before this material is considered, its limitations in performance must be taken into account.

Generally travertine is suitable only for internal flooring purposes, and then only after the most careful consideration. Strength may be lower than most other stones and the presence of hidden voids below the surface may lead to ongoing repair when the filling material collapses.

Unfilled travertine has been used for flooring purposes but only after strict quality control of the size and distribution of the voids. All travertine is imported.

GREEN MARBLE OR VERDE

Green or verde marble is considered separately to true marble because its origin is often the result of the metamorphism of rocks other than limestones. The green colour is typically derived from the presence of serpentine minerals. These minerals are relatively soft and the structure often weak, the stone commonly requiring reinforcement from matting glued to the underside.

Verdes are rarely used for whole floors and are preferred for providing coloured inserts to other flooring materials. Care must always be taken to ensure their compatibility with other stones.

A special consideration for any verde is the presence or otherwise of asbestiform minerals that may be naturally present e.g. chrysotile (white asbestos) and the amphiboles tremolite and actinolite. It may be prudent to establish that, where present, fibres of these minerals in the respirable range are not generated during any cutting, grinding and polishing operations, particularly if carried out dry.

The Asbestos (Prohibitions) Regulations have banned the import, supply and use of blue, brown and white asbestos (crocidolite, amosite and chrysotile respectively) essentially when part of an asbestos admixture product. Natural stone that contains chrysotile for example, and is used for flooring, would not be classed as an asbestos admixture product.

You can find the very best stone cleaners and polish at www.nsraweb.com/store

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Danger Under Foot- Say No To Rugs

By Frederick M. Hueston

You just installed brand new wall to wall carpeting in your home or office and you breathe in that new carpet smell. You step on that plush carpet and feel comfortable and happy that you have a fresh, new carpet. What you don't know is that new carpet smell is emitting hazardous chemical vapors in the air which include toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, ethyl benzene, styrene, acetone and the list goes on and on. There is even cacogenic chemicals such as p-Dichlorobenzene in that fresh new carpet. These are the hazardous chemicals found in new carpet but there are other harmful chemicals that can be found in the adhesive that is used to install them as well as stain protectors, fire retardants etc. The next time you lie on your carpet to watch TV or have your little son or daughter crawling around think about the chemicals you are being exposed too.



Now you’re convinced not to buy new carpeting and you decide to keep your old carpet and just have it cleaned instead. The hazards found in old carpet are as bad or worse than new carpet. There are many chemicals that have been banned in carpet production that your old carpet may contain. Dust mites, dirt and who knows what can be found in older carpeting. Do you ever spray your house for bugs? If you do these pesticides will accumulate in your carpet and will be trapped in the fibers. In addition smoke and other odors can become trapped in the fibers. If you have a pet and it has fleas, guess where you’ll also find not only the fleas but their eggs as well.



Cleaning your carpet will not eliminate all these harmful chemicals and substances. There is some new research that is linking certain carpet cleaning chemicals to certain diseases such as Kawasaki 's disease. There are even some organizations that are linking carpet to allergies, fibromyolgia, etc



These warnings are not just my opinion but many non profit organizations and companies have similar warnings. Here is a brief list of these organizations:



Environment & Human Health Inc. (EHHI)

The Citizens for Safe Carpet

Environmental Access Research Network

American Lung Association



Even the Center for Disease Control(CDC) posts warnings about the use of carpeting, including the fact that carpet can harbor toxic molds(Centers for Disease Control and Prevention)



How do you avoid all these problems. Its simple..remove your carpet and install hard flooring such as stone or ceramic. Marble, granite, limestone or terrazzo make excellent, safe floor. They don't trap hazardous chemicals, nor do they emit any harmful gases. Carpeting will not last forever, however stone flooring will last for over 100 years if properly cared for.



The next time you consider purchasing that new carpet, do some research and check out the additional resources below and you'll be running to the stone store instead of the carpet store.

www.stone-advice.com
www.nsraweb.com

Saturday, September 29, 2007

A rock-solid reliance on granite

A rock-solid reliance on granite
BY JOY KRAFT

Design trends - especially for kitchens - are changing constantly, with each invention prompting a new generation of ovens, refrigerators, sinks, cabinets, flooring and finishes.

Today's decisions on materials and finishes, many in the spotlight at next weekend's Kitchen Bath & Design Show at the Northern Kentucky Convention Center in Covington, are in danger of being dated before a hammer lands its first blow.

Granite may be the exception to the rule.

Though designers and homeowners continue to flirt with new and unusual countertop surfaces, from stainless steel to glass, granite is holding its own as the most popular upscale choice since it entered the mainstream 10 to 15 years ago.

"For a long time the choice for higher-end kitchens was solid-surface material," says Brian Till, designer at Renewal of Cincinnati in Walnut Hills. "Granite came in 2 centimeter slabs and had to be built up to get it closer to the 1¼- to 1½-inch standard thickness, so there was a lot of labor involved. It got to be quite costly.

"Now, most granite and stones come in 3 centimeter thicknesses ... so labor is not as extensive."

Its beauty and practicality keep granite at the top of the kitchen wish list. Now, homeowners and designers are taking granite out of the kitchen into other rooms for use as bar tops, fireplace mantels and surrounds, tub decking, shower walls, flooring insets, even furniture.

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

WHAT IS A POULTICE?

A poultice is an absorbent material applied to a surface to draw out a stain. It can be a powder, paper or a gel. The most common poultices in use today are powders. A number of powders are very absorbent and are ideal for stain removal. Some typical powders used in poultices are the following:
clays and fullers earth
talc
chalk( whiting)
sepiolite( hydrous magnesium silicate)
diatomaceous earth
methyl cellulose
flour
Clays and diatomaceous earth are usually the best. Do not use whiting or clays containing iron. When using acidic chemicals, the acids will react with the iron and may cause yellowing of certain stone surfaces. It is best to purchase poultice powder materials from a reputable suppliers of products for this purpose. Some typical paper poultices are:
cotton balls
paper towels
gauze pads
Paper poultices can be quite effective on mild stains. They are easier to apply than powder poultices and are also easier to remove. Gel poultices are usually thick chemical gels that are designed to be applied to a stain with the use of powders or papers. They work effectively with certain stains. When purchasing poultice materials ask if they contain stain removing chemicals or if they need chemicals added. Some powder and gel poultices contain chemicals, and all you need to do is add water. Never mix additional chemicals with a poultice that contains its own chemical formulation.

Friday, August 3, 2007

Stone is Number One for Kitchen Counters

Natural Stone is Number One for Kitchen Counters

A key element to making a kitchen both elegant and functional is a great countertop. According to the National Association of Home Builders, granite or natural stone is the number one choice for surfaces and countertops.

However, people are moving away from shiny granite and going for matte finishes such as soapstone and slate in kitchen countertops, says Tom Tessier of Thurston Kitchen and Bath in Eagle-Vail, CO. Many people are attracted to having soapstone as a countertop because of its soft feel. While it can easily scratch, soapstone won’t etch from acids, and stains can be rubbed out easily. Slate countertops are popular because of their high resistance to heat but are highly susceptible to scratches. A new smooth and durable countertop material on the market may provide an alternative: Jerusalem stone resembles the sandy tones of limestone but is not as porous and soft and therefore not as susceptible to stains.

Kitchen remodeling is one of the most common remodeling projects, and consumers dedicate a great deal of time and money to make their rooms elegant and functional. An easy place to start is with countertops. According to the National Association of Home Builders, granite or natural stone is the No. 1 choice for surfaces and countertops. However, people are getting away from shiny granite and going for a more natural look in kitchen countertops, said Tom Tessier of Thurston Kitchen and Bath in Eagle-Vail. Mat finishes like soapstone and slate are more popular than ever, he said.

Soapstone
Soapstone is quarried just like marble and granite with components of magnesite, dolomite, chlorite and talc. Many people are attracted to having soapstone as a countertop because of its soft feel; however, it can easily scratch. Soapstone won’t etch from acids, and stains can be rubbed out easily. Soapstone comes in blue, green and gray, and if mineral oil is applied consistently, it will bring out a charcoal-gray color making it look older and much more elegant.

Slate
Slate countertops are popular because of their high resistance to heat but are highly susceptible to scratches. Composed of seabed, slate stone reflects hues of dark green, blue and black. Just like soapstone, if mineral oils are applied to it, the colors will be enhanced to a darker glowing hue.

Jerusalem stone
A new countertop in the market is Jerusalem stone, which resembles the sandy tones of limestone but is not as porous and soft. People love limestone, but they’re afraid of red wine or tomato sauce staining it. As the name suggests, Jerusalem stone is quarried from areas around Jerusalem. Many people favor it because of its durability, which is like granite, and its smoothness, which is similar to marble. It sets up a nice framework for natural woods and for darker woods.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Tomato sauce left behind a dark stain on my counter

I was preparing spaghetti and meatballs one day. Tomato sauce had ended up getting onto my counter and a dark stain was left behind. How can I get rid of this?

Solution:
1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a good detergent(Ivory works well).
2. If stain is still present clean the area with an alkaline degreaser (Commercial degreasers are available at most janitorial supply houses). Mix with water according to directions and let solution stand on stained area for several minutes. Agitate with a cloth and rinse with clean water.
3. If stain is still not removed than poultice with powder (diatomous earth or similar powder) and an alkaline degreaser. A second poultice may be required using powder and a solvent such as toluene or methylene chloride if there is dye present.

If for some reason this stain was not removed by the solution above, contact the guys at the NSRA for assistance. you may also want to consider picking up some stone care products to prevent this type of damage in the future.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

candy stain on granite

A piece of candy had melted onto my granite table and I don’t know how to get it out. How can I get this stain off.

Solution:
1.Scrap remaining candy from surface.

2.Clean area with acetone and a clean white cloth.

3. If acetone doesn't work than poultice with powder like diatomous earth with one of the following solvents:
Mineral spirits
Toluene
Xylene
Methylene Chloride

source: stone care

Saturday, July 21, 2007

The best surface in the world

Probably the biggest misconception people have of natural stone is its maintenance. Truthfully, natural stone requires about the same care and maintenance as any counter top or floor, and certainly no more than natural wood products like tables and chairs.

The best care you can give your natural stone is preventative care. Preventing stains or scratching before they happen is far easier and cheaper than getting rid or repair of them after the fact.

Granite countertops are surprisingly resilient to stains, and practically impossible to scratch. But, as a preventative measure, wipe up all spills on the countertops within a reasonable amount of time. Don’t let liquid sit on countertops overnight. Granite is most prone to staining by oil and acid, so blot these spills up soon after they happen, and then clean the stone with stone soap and water.

Marble countertops and tabletops can be etch by acidic foods like fruit, tomato sauce, coffee, and wine. Blot, do not wipe, any spills up immediately, and then clean with stone soap and warm water. Place a mat or pad between marble and anything which might scratch your marble, like a pan or utensils. Use coasters between marble and any glasses, especially ones containing acidic compounds like fruit juices, wine, or coffee.

On floors, the best preventative measure is regular dust mopping. The dirt and grit gets ground into marble or granite tiles and wear away the polish finish. So the regular use of a dust mop can help keep dirt off the floor and preserve the finish. Use mats at all entry points to further ensure the long life of your floor’s beautiful finish. Wet mop regularly with warm water and a good stone soap, and change the rinse water frequently. If the floor is particularly dirty, the use of a strong stone cleaner is perfectly acceptable. If the damage is too extensive you made need the aid of a stone restoration professional.
In bathrooms, marble and granite tend to attract soap scum. Keep a squeegee handy for shower walls, and rinse vanities and natural stone sinks with hot, clean water regularly. Then towel them dry.

The use of sealers is also a powerful preventative measure. For countertops, ask the Natural stone restoration what seal would be best for your application. You may need to reapply a sealer periodically. The frequency of applications will depend on the sealer, and on the type of stone you have. Penetrating sealers are also available for flooring and bath areas. Likewise, the application of additional sealer will depend on the type of stone, the frequency of use, and the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If stains and scratches do occur, there are many things you can do on your own to remove them. On granite countertops, remove oil-based stains with acetone, mineral spirits poultice. Food stains like coffee, tea, or fruit juices can usually be removed with hydrogen peroxide poultice. On marble countertops, avoid harsh cleaners and acidic cleaners, including vinegar.

For stubborn soap scum in the bath, ammonia can be used sparingly. Ammonia will, over time, dull the finish on marble, so use it with caution, and only when the soap scum cannot be removed with a mild, neutral detergent and hot water.

Remember the following list of DOs and DON’Ts:

DO use preventative cleaning measures to keep your stone pristine

DO use sealers, applied and reapplied according to manufacturer’s directions

DO blot up spills quickly, especially on marble, and then wash with mild soapy water

DON’T use any kind of acidic cleaner on marble, limestone, or travertine

DON’T use harsh bathroom cleaners or grout cleaners on any natural stone

DON’T be afraid to call your stone dealer for suggestions on maintenance, care, and cleaning

DON’T worry, if you get a significant stain or scratch, that your entire natural stone investment is ruined. Virtually anything can be fixed with professional help.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Tiling a Countertop

Imagine this design as part of a new backsplash in your kitchen.

Granite tile as a countertop has timeless appeal. Do-it-yourselfers will love this project, as well as the look of tile as opposed to laminate. Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks of Fix It Up! show how to install a tile countertop.
Tiling a Countertop
Materials:
wrench
bucket
utility knife
power drill
measuring tape
carpenter's square
level
cement backerboard
plywood
3/8" wood strips
pneumatic nailer
2" galvanized screws
mastic
notched trowel
jigsaw
ceramic tiles (with bullnose trim)
1x2 tack strip
tile spacers
grout
rubber grout float
sponge
towels
grout sealer


Steps:
1. Begin by turning off the water shutoff valve to the sink and placing a bucket under the supply line. Remove the coupling nuts, then the "P" trap, allowing the bucket to catch the water. Next, loosen the clamps holding the sink in place and slice through the caulking between the sink and countertop with a utility knife. Remove the sink.









2. Remove the stove. Remove any brackets or screws that are holding the countertop in place (figure A). Be sure all screws are removed. Use a utility knife to slice through the caulking between the countertop and wall. Remove the countertops.


3. Measure the span of the base cabinets, from the corner to the outside edge. Also measure the depth from the front edge to the wall behind at both ends (figure B). With a carpenter's square, check the square of the walls at any corners. Also check the level at this point and inspect the cabinets and make any necessary repairs.










4. Have plywood cut to size at your local home supply store (or use a circular saw). Next, add 3/8-inch wood strips along the countertop to adjust the height (if necessary) with a pneumatic nailer. Position the plywood on top of the cabinets, flush with the cabinet edge (figure C). Attach the plywood with two-inch screws driven into the cabinet framing every two inches.



5. Cut cement backerboard to size and position it directly on top of the plywood. Remove, then add mastic to the plywood with a notched trowel and set the backerboard on the mastic. Secure with galvanized screws. Cover the joints between the backerboards with fiberglass tape. Apply a thin layer of mastic over the joint to create a smooth surface (figure D). Sweep and vacuum the surface when the mastic is dry.


6. Measure the area out for the sink and cut away the backerboard and plywood with a jigsaw.


7. Dry fit the tiles by drawing perpendicular lines in the corner of the countertop using the front edge as a guide. This will provide you with the starting point for the tiles (figure F). After dry fitting, see what cuts, if any, need to be made to the tiles to cover the area. Also dry fit bullnose trim around the edge.


8. Attach a 1x2 tack strip along the edge to support the bullnose trim until the mastic dries. Using mastic and a trowel, "butter" the edge of the bullnose trim with mastic and place on the counter edge (figure G). Once all trim is in place, move to the countertop.


9. Spread mastic on the countertop evenly with the trowel. Use a twisting motion to set tiles in place, beginning along the front edge of the counter (figure H ). Insert tile spacers to maintain consistency in the layout and to leave room for grout.


10. Next, spread mastic on the wall and on the back of each piece of tile and trim for the backsplash. Add bullnose trim at the wall base, where it meets the tile. Once the trim is in place, measure the wall to find the center above the stove. Create a design with trim and tile and put it in place (figure I). Continue until the backsplash is complete.


11. Around outlets, hold tile in place and mark cut lines with a pencil to determine the cuts to be made (figure J). Use longer screws to reattach the outlets to compensate for the new tiles.


12. Spread grout with a rubber grout float into the joints (figure K). Try to get the joints flush with the surface. When the grout firms up, scrape excess grout. Give the tiles a good cleaning with a damp sponge, being careful not to pull any of the grout out of the joints. Once the surface is dry, buff and polish the tiles with a dry cloth. Allow to cure 48 hours. Apply a grout sealer with a sponge.


13. Once the sealer has cured, the project is done (figure L). This installation takes around 3 days and costs around 1500 dollars.


RESOURCES:
tile - Eternity (Model #: Eternity by Salonie & Travertino Rojo Muldvia Tile)
Zumpano Enterprises, Inc.
7411 Tara Blvd.
Jonesboro, GA 30236
USA


for all the clipping and uneven seams, The homeowner can find assistance from a local NSRA member.

Monday, July 16, 2007

Removing CHOCOLATE stains from marble

CHOCOLATE

Types:
Candy, cocoa, ice cream.
Problem:
Can leave brown stains in light color marbles.
Solution:
1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a good detergent(Ivory soap works well).
2.If stain is still present clean with ammonia and water.Let solution sit on stained area for several minutes.Remove excess solution and rinse with clear cold water.
3.If above procedures fail, poultice with Diatomous earth or similar powder and ammonia.Difficult to remove chocolate stains may require poulticing with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.

source

Slate Countertops For Kitchens And Vanities



Slate is the quiet, little known, but serious, player in countertops for kitchens and vanities. Of course, slate is traditionally seen as a building material for flooring, roofing, cladding on buildings, wherever there is a need for a very strong, solidly performing material. So, why not kitchen countertops?

Slate keeps a low profile. Not often seen at kitchen and bath shows, rarely marketed to kitchen and bath designers, slate is, perhaps, one of the strongest, if not the strongest, materials one can use as a kitchen countertop even exceeding the properties of granite.

Slate, as a countertop material, has numerous properties that we designers look for, and need.

Color



Slate is available in a variety of colors. Mostly understated, in middle to dark tones, the colors of slate are generally seen as:

* Red
* Deep Purple
* Deep Purple/Turquoise Combination
* Turquoise
* Gray
* Black

The look is quiet, elegant, strong, simplistic, nature-like, minimalist.dependent on its application within the room. Slate is almost always honed, although it can be oiled for a slightly more glossy look.

Pattern/Graining

Depending on the variety of the slate, the grain type and pattern can vary. Some slates, as Black Lace, has a distinctive highly textural, high-design look. Other slates exhibit very little graining whatsoever. Others are mottled. Some are quiet, with little graining, except for one strong, localized grain pattern, running through the slate, for a look of pure, natural beauty. Clients must be advised that graining pattern/direction/type cannot be predicted. Photos of completed countertops in their color and a 12x12 sample is helpful.

Edging



Typically, slate edges are simple square edges with a very small radius top and bottom. Variations could be any edge one would see in granite. Due to the understated look, slate is not often seen with an ogee (OG) edge. Slate is perfect for a rough cut, exposed, edge. Try it!

Properties

One of the best properties of slate is its extremely low absorption rate, lower than granite. Designers can consider most slates as being stain-free. KBP.com has performed testing on the turquoise/green colors and has found these slate colors to be stain-free. Slate in the gray/black family may need a sealer. Get 12x12 samples of various colors from a slate distributor. In many cases, they are free.Take time to apply numerous food and acidic substances to the material.wine, coffee, worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, ketchup, tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, oils. Leave 24 hours, wipe clean, and observe. Or, on a 12x12 sample, apply substances to half of that surface. As a result of slate's low absorption, the material can be considered anti bacterial in nature.

Slab material generally is available in smaller sizes than granite, resulting in an additional seam or two. Pay attention to seaming issues.

Care



Soap and water, or even a tough cleaning product such as Fantastic. If a sheen is desired, use a diluted solution of Murphy's Oil Soap and water. Apply, and buff off before it dries.

Scratches are easily removed, simply, with a sponge, during normal cleaning of the countertop. Deeper scratches are easily rubbed out with wet steel wool.

ONLY the gray and black stones need to be sealed as they are more absorptive in nature than other colored slates. Thus, mild soaps only should be used on these colors, so as not to strip the sealer.