Tomato sauce left behind a dark stain on my counter

I was preparing spaghetti and meatballs one day. Tomato sauce had ended up getting onto my counter and a dark stain was left behind. How can I get rid of this?

Solution:
1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a good detergent(Ivory works well).
2. If stain is still present clean the area with an alkaline degreaser (Commercial degreasers are available at most janitorial supply houses). Mix with water according to directions and let solution stand on stained area for several minutes. Agitate with a cloth and rinse with clean water.
3. If stain is still not removed than poultice with powder (diatomous earth or similar powder) and an alkaline degreaser. A second poultice may be required using powder and a solvent such as toluene or methylene chloride if there is dye present.

If for some reason this stain was not removed by the solution above, contact the guys at the NSRA for assistance. you may also want to consider picking up some stone care products to prevent this type of damage in the future.

candy stain on granite

A piece of candy had melted onto my granite table and I don’t know how to get it out. How can I get this stain off.

Solution:
1.Scrap remaining candy from surface.

2.Clean area with acetone and a clean white cloth.

3. If acetone doesn't work than poultice with powder like diatomous earth with one of the following solvents:
Mineral spirits
Toluene
Xylene
Methylene Chloride

source: stone care

The best surface in the world

Probably the biggest misconception people have of natural stone is its maintenance. Truthfully, natural stone requires about the same care and maintenance as any counter top or floor, and certainly no more than natural wood products like tables and chairs.

The best care you can give your natural stone is preventative care. Preventing stains or scratching before they happen is far easier and cheaper than getting rid or repair of them after the fact.

Granite countertops are surprisingly resilient to stains, and practically impossible to scratch. But, as a preventative measure, wipe up all spills on the countertops within a reasonable amount of time. Don’t let liquid sit on countertops overnight. Granite is most prone to staining by oil and acid, so blot these spills up soon after they happen, and then clean the stone with stone soap and water.

Marble countertops and tabletops can be etch by acidic foods like fruit, tomato sauce, coffee, and wine. Blot, do not wipe, any spills up immediately, and then clean with stone soap and warm water. Place a mat or pad between marble and anything which might scratch your marble, like a pan or utensils. Use coasters between marble and any glasses, especially ones containing acidic compounds like fruit juices, wine, or coffee.

On floors, the best preventative measure is regular dust mopping. The dirt and grit gets ground into marble or granite tiles and wear away the polish finish. So the regular use of a dust mop can help keep dirt off the floor and preserve the finish. Use mats at all entry points to further ensure the long life of your floor’s beautiful finish. Wet mop regularly with warm water and a good stone soap, and change the rinse water frequently. If the floor is particularly dirty, the use of a strong stone cleaner is perfectly acceptable. If the damage is too extensive you made need the aid of a stone restoration professional.
In bathrooms, marble and granite tend to attract soap scum. Keep a squeegee handy for shower walls, and rinse vanities and natural stone sinks with hot, clean water regularly. Then towel them dry.

The use of sealers is also a powerful preventative measure. For countertops, ask the Natural stone restoration what seal would be best for your application. You may need to reapply a sealer periodically. The frequency of applications will depend on the sealer, and on the type of stone you have. Penetrating sealers are also available for flooring and bath areas. Likewise, the application of additional sealer will depend on the type of stone, the frequency of use, and the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If stains and scratches do occur, there are many things you can do on your own to remove them. On granite countertops, remove oil-based stains with acetone, mineral spirits poultice. Food stains like coffee, tea, or fruit juices can usually be removed with hydrogen peroxide poultice. On marble countertops, avoid harsh cleaners and acidic cleaners, including vinegar.

For stubborn soap scum in the bath, ammonia can be used sparingly. Ammonia will, over time, dull the finish on marble, so use it with caution, and only when the soap scum cannot be removed with a mild, neutral detergent and hot water.

Remember the following list of DOs and DON’Ts:

DO use preventative cleaning measures to keep your stone pristine

DO use sealers, applied and reapplied according to manufacturer’s directions

DO blot up spills quickly, especially on marble, and then wash with mild soapy water

DON’T use any kind of acidic cleaner on marble, limestone, or travertine

DON’T use harsh bathroom cleaners or grout cleaners on any natural stone

DON’T be afraid to call your stone dealer for suggestions on maintenance, care, and cleaning

DON’T worry, if you get a significant stain or scratch, that your entire natural stone investment is ruined. Virtually anything can be fixed with professional help.

Tiling a Countertop

Imagine this design as part of a new backsplash in your kitchen.

Granite tile as a countertop has timeless appeal. Do-it-yourselfers will love this project, as well as the look of tile as opposed to laminate. Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks of Fix It Up! show how to install a tile countertop.
Tiling a Countertop
Materials:
wrench
bucket
utility knife
power drill
measuring tape
carpenter's square
level
cement backerboard
plywood
3/8" wood strips
pneumatic nailer
2" galvanized screws
mastic
notched trowel
jigsaw
ceramic tiles (with bullnose trim)
1x2 tack strip
tile spacers
grout
rubber grout float
sponge
towels
grout sealer


Steps:
1. Begin by turning off the water shutoff valve to the sink and placing a bucket under the supply line. Remove the coupling nuts, then the "P" trap, allowing the bucket to catch the water. Next, loosen the clamps holding the sink in place and slice through the caulking between the sink and countertop with a utility knife. Remove the sink.









2. Remove the stove. Remove any brackets or screws that are holding the countertop in place (figure A). Be sure all screws are removed. Use a utility knife to slice through the caulking between the countertop and wall. Remove the countertops.


3. Measure the span of the base cabinets, from the corner to the outside edge. Also measure the depth from the front edge to the wall behind at both ends (figure B). With a carpenter's square, check the square of the walls at any corners. Also check the level at this point and inspect the cabinets and make any necessary repairs.










4. Have plywood cut to size at your local home supply store (or use a circular saw). Next, add 3/8-inch wood strips along the countertop to adjust the height (if necessary) with a pneumatic nailer. Position the plywood on top of the cabinets, flush with the cabinet edge (figure C). Attach the plywood with two-inch screws driven into the cabinet framing every two inches.



5. Cut cement backerboard to size and position it directly on top of the plywood. Remove, then add mastic to the plywood with a notched trowel and set the backerboard on the mastic. Secure with galvanized screws. Cover the joints between the backerboards with fiberglass tape. Apply a thin layer of mastic over the joint to create a smooth surface (figure D). Sweep and vacuum the surface when the mastic is dry.


6. Measure the area out for the sink and cut away the backerboard and plywood with a jigsaw.


7. Dry fit the tiles by drawing perpendicular lines in the corner of the countertop using the front edge as a guide. This will provide you with the starting point for the tiles (figure F). After dry fitting, see what cuts, if any, need to be made to the tiles to cover the area. Also dry fit bullnose trim around the edge.


8. Attach a 1x2 tack strip along the edge to support the bullnose trim until the mastic dries. Using mastic and a trowel, "butter" the edge of the bullnose trim with mastic and place on the counter edge (figure G). Once all trim is in place, move to the countertop.


9. Spread mastic on the countertop evenly with the trowel. Use a twisting motion to set tiles in place, beginning along the front edge of the counter (figure H ). Insert tile spacers to maintain consistency in the layout and to leave room for grout.


10. Next, spread mastic on the wall and on the back of each piece of tile and trim for the backsplash. Add bullnose trim at the wall base, where it meets the tile. Once the trim is in place, measure the wall to find the center above the stove. Create a design with trim and tile and put it in place (figure I). Continue until the backsplash is complete.


11. Around outlets, hold tile in place and mark cut lines with a pencil to determine the cuts to be made (figure J). Use longer screws to reattach the outlets to compensate for the new tiles.


12. Spread grout with a rubber grout float into the joints (figure K). Try to get the joints flush with the surface. When the grout firms up, scrape excess grout. Give the tiles a good cleaning with a damp sponge, being careful not to pull any of the grout out of the joints. Once the surface is dry, buff and polish the tiles with a dry cloth. Allow to cure 48 hours. Apply a grout sealer with a sponge.


13. Once the sealer has cured, the project is done (figure L). This installation takes around 3 days and costs around 1500 dollars.


RESOURCES:
tile - Eternity (Model #: Eternity by Salonie & Travertino Rojo Muldvia Tile)
Zumpano Enterprises, Inc.
7411 Tara Blvd.
Jonesboro, GA 30236
USA


for all the clipping and uneven seams, The homeowner can find assistance from a local NSRA member.

Removing CHOCOLATE stains from marble

CHOCOLATE

Types:
Candy, cocoa, ice cream.
Problem:
Can leave brown stains in light color marbles.
Solution:
1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a good detergent(Ivory soap works well).
2.If stain is still present clean with ammonia and water.Let solution sit on stained area for several minutes.Remove excess solution and rinse with clear cold water.
3.If above procedures fail, poultice with Diatomous earth or similar powder and ammonia.Difficult to remove chocolate stains may require poulticing with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.

source

Slate Countertops For Kitchens And Vanities

Slate is the quiet, little known, but serious, player in countertops for kitchens and vanities. Of course, slate is traditionally seen as a building material for flooring, roofing, cladding on buildings, wherever there is a need for a very strong, solidly performing material. So, why not kitchen countertops?

Slate keeps a low profile. Not often seen at kitchen and bath shows, rarely marketed to kitchen and bath designers, slate is, perhaps, one of the strongest, if not the strongest, materials one can use as a kitchen countertop even exceeding the properties of granite.

Slate, as a countertop material, has numerous properties that we designers look for, and need.

Color



Slate is available in a variety of colors. Mostly understated, in middle to dark tones, the colors of slate are generally seen as:

* Red
* Deep Purple
* Deep Purple/Turquoise Combination
* Turquoise
* Gray
* Black

The look is quiet, elegant, strong, simplistic, nature-like, minimalist.dependent on its application within the room. Slate is almost always honed, although it can be oiled for a slightly more glossy look.

Pattern/Graining

Depending on the variety of the slate, the grain type and pattern can vary. Some slates, as Black Lace, has a distinctive highly textural, high-design look. Other slates exhibit very little graining whatsoever. Others are mottled. Some are quiet, with little graining, except for one strong, localized grain pattern, running through the slate, for a look of pure, natural beauty. Clients must be advised that graining pattern/direction/type cannot be predicted. Photos of completed countertops in their color and a 12x12 sample is helpful.

Edging



Typically, slate edges are simple square edges with a very small radius top and bottom. Variations could be any edge one would see in granite. Due to the understated look, slate is not often seen with an ogee (OG) edge. Slate is perfect for a rough cut, exposed, edge. Try it!

Properties

One of the best properties of slate is its extremely low absorption rate, lower than granite. Designers can consider most slates as being stain-free. KBP.com has performed testing on the turquoise/green colors and has found these slate colors to be stain-free. Slate in the gray/black family may need a sealer. Get 12x12 samples of various colors from a slate distributor. In many cases, they are free.Take time to apply numerous food and acidic substances to the material.wine, coffee, worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, ketchup, tomatoes, balsamic vinegar, oils. Leave 24 hours, wipe clean, and observe. Or, on a 12x12 sample, apply substances to half of that surface. As a result of slate's low absorption, the material can be considered anti bacterial in nature.

Slab material generally is available in smaller sizes than granite, resulting in an additional seam or two. Pay attention to seaming issues.

Care



Soap and water, or even a tough cleaning product such as Fantastic. If a sheen is desired, use a diluted solution of Murphy's Oil Soap and water. Apply, and buff off before it dries.

Scratches are easily removed, simply, with a sponge, during normal cleaning of the countertop. Deeper scratches are easily rubbed out with wet steel wool.

ONLY the gray and black stones need to be sealed as they are more absorptive in nature than other colored slates. Thus, mild soaps only should be used on these colors, so as not to strip the sealer.